Can I use WD40 and generic bicycle oil to maintain my MTB drivetrain?
up vote
6
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For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. This is for a somewhat cheap MTB that sees everyday use for commuting.
What oil? I don't even know, and I don't believe it comes with any specifications. It is the absolutely cheapest I could find on eBay, it costs less than 1 USD including shipping, for 50 ml.
Is there any problem with doing this? If so, what is the problem? It seems to work great for me, contrary to what seems to be popular belief and advice found in professional (or not so professional, I have no idea who actually knows what they're talking about) maintenance videos?
The steps outlined e.g. here
are incredibly elaborate, they involve among other things, using a modified pair of nailbrushes to sandwich the chain, just to make sure that it gets cleaned properly. It also stresses how important it is to degrease it first. It also mentioned how you must use hot soapy water to clean it. It also suggests using aerosol lube before applying the actual chain lubrication. It is mentioned how you should use grease, and is this the shot where he painstakingly applies it to each link of the chain, by hand? Finally, it says it is not essential (which means, it is a really good idea to do it, you just don't have to) to dismantle your drivechain every time you want to clean it. I don't do any of these things, at all.
I use a worn brush and just rather carelessly scrub a bit at it, removing obviously large chunks and lager pieces of debris. Then soak it in WD40, wipe it off with a rag, use copious amounts of the cheap oil and then off the excess again. I've never had any issues. This is also where it gets to way below zero, there is a lot of salt on the road, often a lot of rain. The bicycle is stored indoors most of the time.
This MTB has some cheap Shimano parts, Shimano M190 31.8, Shimano M191 42-34-24 CG, Shimano CS-HG30-8 11-32, and the chain is a KMC Z72.
Trying to improve my own knowledge about bicycles, particularly in care and maintenance, seems to quickly make me run into a wall of enthusiasts that are just on a completely different level. It is rather demotivating. If there is indeed something wrong with what I do, it would be nice to know exactly what the problem is, and what I can realistically do to improve it. Because, doing what is suggested in that video, I think, is completely unrealistic to almost everyone except enthusiasts.
maintenance chain
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
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show 2 more comments
up vote
6
down vote
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For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. This is for a somewhat cheap MTB that sees everyday use for commuting.
What oil? I don't even know, and I don't believe it comes with any specifications. It is the absolutely cheapest I could find on eBay, it costs less than 1 USD including shipping, for 50 ml.
Is there any problem with doing this? If so, what is the problem? It seems to work great for me, contrary to what seems to be popular belief and advice found in professional (or not so professional, I have no idea who actually knows what they're talking about) maintenance videos?
The steps outlined e.g. here
are incredibly elaborate, they involve among other things, using a modified pair of nailbrushes to sandwich the chain, just to make sure that it gets cleaned properly. It also stresses how important it is to degrease it first. It also mentioned how you must use hot soapy water to clean it. It also suggests using aerosol lube before applying the actual chain lubrication. It is mentioned how you should use grease, and is this the shot where he painstakingly applies it to each link of the chain, by hand? Finally, it says it is not essential (which means, it is a really good idea to do it, you just don't have to) to dismantle your drivechain every time you want to clean it. I don't do any of these things, at all.
I use a worn brush and just rather carelessly scrub a bit at it, removing obviously large chunks and lager pieces of debris. Then soak it in WD40, wipe it off with a rag, use copious amounts of the cheap oil and then off the excess again. I've never had any issues. This is also where it gets to way below zero, there is a lot of salt on the road, often a lot of rain. The bicycle is stored indoors most of the time.
This MTB has some cheap Shimano parts, Shimano M190 31.8, Shimano M191 42-34-24 CG, Shimano CS-HG30-8 11-32, and the chain is a KMC Z72.
Trying to improve my own knowledge about bicycles, particularly in care and maintenance, seems to quickly make me run into a wall of enthusiasts that are just on a completely different level. It is rather demotivating. If there is indeed something wrong with what I do, it would be nice to know exactly what the problem is, and what I can realistically do to improve it. Because, doing what is suggested in that video, I think, is completely unrealistic to almost everyone except enthusiasts.
maintenance chain
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
6
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
9
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
2
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
2
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
1
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01
|
show 2 more comments
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. This is for a somewhat cheap MTB that sees everyday use for commuting.
What oil? I don't even know, and I don't believe it comes with any specifications. It is the absolutely cheapest I could find on eBay, it costs less than 1 USD including shipping, for 50 ml.
Is there any problem with doing this? If so, what is the problem? It seems to work great for me, contrary to what seems to be popular belief and advice found in professional (or not so professional, I have no idea who actually knows what they're talking about) maintenance videos?
The steps outlined e.g. here
are incredibly elaborate, they involve among other things, using a modified pair of nailbrushes to sandwich the chain, just to make sure that it gets cleaned properly. It also stresses how important it is to degrease it first. It also mentioned how you must use hot soapy water to clean it. It also suggests using aerosol lube before applying the actual chain lubrication. It is mentioned how you should use grease, and is this the shot where he painstakingly applies it to each link of the chain, by hand? Finally, it says it is not essential (which means, it is a really good idea to do it, you just don't have to) to dismantle your drivechain every time you want to clean it. I don't do any of these things, at all.
I use a worn brush and just rather carelessly scrub a bit at it, removing obviously large chunks and lager pieces of debris. Then soak it in WD40, wipe it off with a rag, use copious amounts of the cheap oil and then off the excess again. I've never had any issues. This is also where it gets to way below zero, there is a lot of salt on the road, often a lot of rain. The bicycle is stored indoors most of the time.
This MTB has some cheap Shimano parts, Shimano M190 31.8, Shimano M191 42-34-24 CG, Shimano CS-HG30-8 11-32, and the chain is a KMC Z72.
Trying to improve my own knowledge about bicycles, particularly in care and maintenance, seems to quickly make me run into a wall of enthusiasts that are just on a completely different level. It is rather demotivating. If there is indeed something wrong with what I do, it would be nice to know exactly what the problem is, and what I can realistically do to improve it. Because, doing what is suggested in that video, I think, is completely unrealistic to almost everyone except enthusiasts.
maintenance chain
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. This is for a somewhat cheap MTB that sees everyday use for commuting.
What oil? I don't even know, and I don't believe it comes with any specifications. It is the absolutely cheapest I could find on eBay, it costs less than 1 USD including shipping, for 50 ml.
Is there any problem with doing this? If so, what is the problem? It seems to work great for me, contrary to what seems to be popular belief and advice found in professional (or not so professional, I have no idea who actually knows what they're talking about) maintenance videos?
The steps outlined e.g. here
are incredibly elaborate, they involve among other things, using a modified pair of nailbrushes to sandwich the chain, just to make sure that it gets cleaned properly. It also stresses how important it is to degrease it first. It also mentioned how you must use hot soapy water to clean it. It also suggests using aerosol lube before applying the actual chain lubrication. It is mentioned how you should use grease, and is this the shot where he painstakingly applies it to each link of the chain, by hand? Finally, it says it is not essential (which means, it is a really good idea to do it, you just don't have to) to dismantle your drivechain every time you want to clean it. I don't do any of these things, at all.
I use a worn brush and just rather carelessly scrub a bit at it, removing obviously large chunks and lager pieces of debris. Then soak it in WD40, wipe it off with a rag, use copious amounts of the cheap oil and then off the excess again. I've never had any issues. This is also where it gets to way below zero, there is a lot of salt on the road, often a lot of rain. The bicycle is stored indoors most of the time.
This MTB has some cheap Shimano parts, Shimano M190 31.8, Shimano M191 42-34-24 CG, Shimano CS-HG30-8 11-32, and the chain is a KMC Z72.
Trying to improve my own knowledge about bicycles, particularly in care and maintenance, seems to quickly make me run into a wall of enthusiasts that are just on a completely different level. It is rather demotivating. If there is indeed something wrong with what I do, it would be nice to know exactly what the problem is, and what I can realistically do to improve it. Because, doing what is suggested in that video, I think, is completely unrealistic to almost everyone except enthusiasts.
maintenance chain
maintenance chain
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
asked Nov 28 at 12:12
AlphaCentauri
1403
1403
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
6
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
9
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
2
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
2
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
1
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01
|
show 2 more comments
6
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
9
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
2
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
2
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
1
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01
6
6
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
9
9
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
2
2
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
2
2
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
1
1
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01
|
show 2 more comments
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
You're basically using WD40 as degreaser (it's a very thin oil that will dissolve away thicker oily gunk) and then using chain lube as chain lube. This is fine, as shown by the fact that you've been doing this for ages and not had any problems.
The only thing I'd suggest is that there's no need to use "copious amounts" of chain lube. It doesn't take long at all to just apply a dot of lube to each link of the chain as thown in the video, then let it soak in for a couple of minutes and wipe off the excess. Alternatively, hold the nozzle of the lube bottle against the chain at one end of the rollers and use the pedals to rotate the chain once round, while dispensing a thin stream of oil, then repeat for the other end of the rollers. If your chain has a quick link or similar connector, you can use that to see when you've been round once. Ultimately, though, since you're wiping off the excess, the only question is whether you prefer to use less lube or less of your precious time.
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You might have a slightly shorter chain life, and slightly more chain drag than if you followed the recommended chain cleaning procedure and used a better lube.
FYI if I remember correctly there is a GCN video where they show a quick chain cleaning method using WD40. WD40 is lube in a solvent, so it works to remove old lube and contaminants then evaporates so you don't have to wash it off.
You might consider a better chain lube. It's more expensive but if you apply a drop per chain pin as in the video a bottle lasts a very long time.
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I think you're doing good job. I think you can save time by using a chain cleaner tool, I find it satisfying to watch the chain becoming clean just by turning the crank by hand. You can buy the solvent or just use soap water.
After degreasing, I also use WD-40, but it's WD-40 Chain Lubricant. It's probably the same as other lubes. The advantage with WD-40 is, again, I just turn the crank and spray. Because of the fine spray, there's less drips on the floor.
I wouldn't worry about damaging the chain, it will worn out before anything. I replace mine every 10,000 km (really stretching it here)
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
add a comment |
up vote
-1
down vote
Yes, you can use WD40 and generic oil for maintance. But also you can use diesel fuel and two old tooth burshes linked together with ducktape. Diesel is cheaper but if has few drawbacks. It can cause cancer if you don't protect your skin(with gloves) and after cleaning chain you should wash chain with soapy water.
I use diesel for over a year and chain always looks shiny.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
You're basically using WD40 as degreaser (it's a very thin oil that will dissolve away thicker oily gunk) and then using chain lube as chain lube. This is fine, as shown by the fact that you've been doing this for ages and not had any problems.
The only thing I'd suggest is that there's no need to use "copious amounts" of chain lube. It doesn't take long at all to just apply a dot of lube to each link of the chain as thown in the video, then let it soak in for a couple of minutes and wipe off the excess. Alternatively, hold the nozzle of the lube bottle against the chain at one end of the rollers and use the pedals to rotate the chain once round, while dispensing a thin stream of oil, then repeat for the other end of the rollers. If your chain has a quick link or similar connector, you can use that to see when you've been round once. Ultimately, though, since you're wiping off the excess, the only question is whether you prefer to use less lube or less of your precious time.
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
You're basically using WD40 as degreaser (it's a very thin oil that will dissolve away thicker oily gunk) and then using chain lube as chain lube. This is fine, as shown by the fact that you've been doing this for ages and not had any problems.
The only thing I'd suggest is that there's no need to use "copious amounts" of chain lube. It doesn't take long at all to just apply a dot of lube to each link of the chain as thown in the video, then let it soak in for a couple of minutes and wipe off the excess. Alternatively, hold the nozzle of the lube bottle against the chain at one end of the rollers and use the pedals to rotate the chain once round, while dispensing a thin stream of oil, then repeat for the other end of the rollers. If your chain has a quick link or similar connector, you can use that to see when you've been round once. Ultimately, though, since you're wiping off the excess, the only question is whether you prefer to use less lube or less of your precious time.
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
You're basically using WD40 as degreaser (it's a very thin oil that will dissolve away thicker oily gunk) and then using chain lube as chain lube. This is fine, as shown by the fact that you've been doing this for ages and not had any problems.
The only thing I'd suggest is that there's no need to use "copious amounts" of chain lube. It doesn't take long at all to just apply a dot of lube to each link of the chain as thown in the video, then let it soak in for a couple of minutes and wipe off the excess. Alternatively, hold the nozzle of the lube bottle against the chain at one end of the rollers and use the pedals to rotate the chain once round, while dispensing a thin stream of oil, then repeat for the other end of the rollers. If your chain has a quick link or similar connector, you can use that to see when you've been round once. Ultimately, though, since you're wiping off the excess, the only question is whether you prefer to use less lube or less of your precious time.
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
You're basically using WD40 as degreaser (it's a very thin oil that will dissolve away thicker oily gunk) and then using chain lube as chain lube. This is fine, as shown by the fact that you've been doing this for ages and not had any problems.
The only thing I'd suggest is that there's no need to use "copious amounts" of chain lube. It doesn't take long at all to just apply a dot of lube to each link of the chain as thown in the video, then let it soak in for a couple of minutes and wipe off the excess. Alternatively, hold the nozzle of the lube bottle against the chain at one end of the rollers and use the pedals to rotate the chain once round, while dispensing a thin stream of oil, then repeat for the other end of the rollers. If your chain has a quick link or similar connector, you can use that to see when you've been round once. Ultimately, though, since you're wiping off the excess, the only question is whether you prefer to use less lube or less of your precious time.
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
answered Nov 28 at 12:33
David Richerby
9,92823151
9,92823151
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
add a comment |
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
No need for lubing every link separately: Just turn your bike upside down, turn the cranks, and apply some oil onto the running chain. The motion of the chain distributes the oil over long stretches of the chain, and the sprocket and chain-ring will further distribute it over the entire chain. Once you've applied the oil, keep turning the cranks for a short while to finish this distribution. Never had any problems with that method, and it's really fast.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 22:42
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
@cmaster Yes, that's what I was trying to describe as the alternative method, except that there's no need to tur the bike upside-down to do this.
– David Richerby
Nov 28 at 22:55
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
Ups, sorry, didn't read to the end of your answer... Turning upside down is necessary if you ride an IGH with a coaster brake like I do, and you don't have the means to suspend your bike off the ground. You can't just turn the cranks on such a bike if the wheel can't turn freely.
– cmaster
Nov 28 at 23:05
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You might have a slightly shorter chain life, and slightly more chain drag than if you followed the recommended chain cleaning procedure and used a better lube.
FYI if I remember correctly there is a GCN video where they show a quick chain cleaning method using WD40. WD40 is lube in a solvent, so it works to remove old lube and contaminants then evaporates so you don't have to wash it off.
You might consider a better chain lube. It's more expensive but if you apply a drop per chain pin as in the video a bottle lasts a very long time.
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
You might have a slightly shorter chain life, and slightly more chain drag than if you followed the recommended chain cleaning procedure and used a better lube.
FYI if I remember correctly there is a GCN video where they show a quick chain cleaning method using WD40. WD40 is lube in a solvent, so it works to remove old lube and contaminants then evaporates so you don't have to wash it off.
You might consider a better chain lube. It's more expensive but if you apply a drop per chain pin as in the video a bottle lasts a very long time.
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
add a comment |
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
You might have a slightly shorter chain life, and slightly more chain drag than if you followed the recommended chain cleaning procedure and used a better lube.
FYI if I remember correctly there is a GCN video where they show a quick chain cleaning method using WD40. WD40 is lube in a solvent, so it works to remove old lube and contaminants then evaporates so you don't have to wash it off.
You might consider a better chain lube. It's more expensive but if you apply a drop per chain pin as in the video a bottle lasts a very long time.
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
You might have a slightly shorter chain life, and slightly more chain drag than if you followed the recommended chain cleaning procedure and used a better lube.
FYI if I remember correctly there is a GCN video where they show a quick chain cleaning method using WD40. WD40 is lube in a solvent, so it works to remove old lube and contaminants then evaporates so you don't have to wash it off.
You might consider a better chain lube. It's more expensive but if you apply a drop per chain pin as in the video a bottle lasts a very long time.
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
answered Nov 28 at 13:14
Argenti Apparatus
31.2k23480
31.2k23480
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
add a comment |
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
Perhaps youtu.be/DvAZv-wiVkM?t=162
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 16:33
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I think you're doing good job. I think you can save time by using a chain cleaner tool, I find it satisfying to watch the chain becoming clean just by turning the crank by hand. You can buy the solvent or just use soap water.
After degreasing, I also use WD-40, but it's WD-40 Chain Lubricant. It's probably the same as other lubes. The advantage with WD-40 is, again, I just turn the crank and spray. Because of the fine spray, there's less drips on the floor.
I wouldn't worry about damaging the chain, it will worn out before anything. I replace mine every 10,000 km (really stretching it here)
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
I think you're doing good job. I think you can save time by using a chain cleaner tool, I find it satisfying to watch the chain becoming clean just by turning the crank by hand. You can buy the solvent or just use soap water.
After degreasing, I also use WD-40, but it's WD-40 Chain Lubricant. It's probably the same as other lubes. The advantage with WD-40 is, again, I just turn the crank and spray. Because of the fine spray, there's less drips on the floor.
I wouldn't worry about damaging the chain, it will worn out before anything. I replace mine every 10,000 km (really stretching it here)
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
add a comment |
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
I think you're doing good job. I think you can save time by using a chain cleaner tool, I find it satisfying to watch the chain becoming clean just by turning the crank by hand. You can buy the solvent or just use soap water.
After degreasing, I also use WD-40, but it's WD-40 Chain Lubricant. It's probably the same as other lubes. The advantage with WD-40 is, again, I just turn the crank and spray. Because of the fine spray, there's less drips on the floor.
I wouldn't worry about damaging the chain, it will worn out before anything. I replace mine every 10,000 km (really stretching it here)
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
I think you're doing good job. I think you can save time by using a chain cleaner tool, I find it satisfying to watch the chain becoming clean just by turning the crank by hand. You can buy the solvent or just use soap water.
After degreasing, I also use WD-40, but it's WD-40 Chain Lubricant. It's probably the same as other lubes. The advantage with WD-40 is, again, I just turn the crank and spray. Because of the fine spray, there's less drips on the floor.
I wouldn't worry about damaging the chain, it will worn out before anything. I replace mine every 10,000 km (really stretching it here)
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
answered Nov 28 at 20:26
imel96
86921024
86921024
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
add a comment |
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
I would worry about contaminating the brakes with the spray. Especially disc brake rotors, but rims are not immune.
– Vladimir F
Nov 28 at 21:19
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
@VladimirF you just spray the part of the chain on the cassette
– imel96
Nov 29 at 2:51
add a comment |
up vote
-1
down vote
Yes, you can use WD40 and generic oil for maintance. But also you can use diesel fuel and two old tooth burshes linked together with ducktape. Diesel is cheaper but if has few drawbacks. It can cause cancer if you don't protect your skin(with gloves) and after cleaning chain you should wash chain with soapy water.
I use diesel for over a year and chain always looks shiny.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
add a comment |
up vote
-1
down vote
Yes, you can use WD40 and generic oil for maintance. But also you can use diesel fuel and two old tooth burshes linked together with ducktape. Diesel is cheaper but if has few drawbacks. It can cause cancer if you don't protect your skin(with gloves) and after cleaning chain you should wash chain with soapy water.
I use diesel for over a year and chain always looks shiny.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
add a comment |
up vote
-1
down vote
up vote
-1
down vote
Yes, you can use WD40 and generic oil for maintance. But also you can use diesel fuel and two old tooth burshes linked together with ducktape. Diesel is cheaper but if has few drawbacks. It can cause cancer if you don't protect your skin(with gloves) and after cleaning chain you should wash chain with soapy water.
I use diesel for over a year and chain always looks shiny.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Yes, you can use WD40 and generic oil for maintance. But also you can use diesel fuel and two old tooth burshes linked together with ducktape. Diesel is cheaper but if has few drawbacks. It can cause cancer if you don't protect your skin(with gloves) and after cleaning chain you should wash chain with soapy water.
I use diesel for over a year and chain always looks shiny.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
answered Nov 28 at 22:42
SilvioCro
1
1
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
SilvioCro is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
add a comment |
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
I'd be wary of anything that involves storing and safely disposing of toxic, flammable substances. There are so many alternatives.
– David Richerby
Nov 29 at 1:05
add a comment |
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
AlphaCentauri is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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6
For years I've been using WD40, a brass brush, a rag, and some generic bicycle chain oil. My chain has no visible damage, and I have no problems with it. So you have no problems. Not surprising, as bicycling puts such low stresses on substances such as lubes "borrowed" from automotive and industrial uses. The cheap oil you're using was probably designed to handle temperatures and pressures much more extreme than your bicycling puts it through. Don't pay any heed to the "My way is the only right way!" chain lube preachers. You've already proven them wrong.
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:18
9
Besides, all those "this is the right way to clean and lube a chain" pedants are utterly wrong. This is the only proper way to clean a chain. ;-)
– Andrew Henle
Nov 28 at 12:23
2
The main problem with WD40 in this situation is that it's wasteful (and environmentally unsound). I use a chain washer and chain washer solvent. The solvent can be reused several times, and you can use an auto parts solvent if you don't want to splurge on the bike stuff.
– Daniel R Hicks
Nov 28 at 13:11
2
That you are doing any maintenance at all is better than doing no maintenance, which is how many of the bikes on our roads are treated.
– Criggie
Nov 28 at 18:30
1
If you can't hear the chain while pedalling - and the reason isn't that it just fell off - you're doing it right.
– Adam Eberbach
Nov 28 at 23:01